Statement of obvious fact: Rome is overwhelming.
I suppose it’s simply because this mammoth city teeters on centuries of history. Everything about it is larger than life, especially when touring the Vatican and the Coliseum are your main objectives.
Getting there was our first challenge. We GPSed our way to the train station in Florence, but then found Italy’s train system a little confusing. First, the ticket line was quite long, so I decided to see if I could just purchase tickets online, like Amtrak. Chris continued to hold our place in line while I got online and bought them. (Again, I’m not sure how you can travel abroad without an international phone plan in some shape or form.)
However, we slowly found out that the train tickets I had purchased online were not from the same company that Chris was standing in line for. What?! The tickets I purchased were for a totally different company that used the same train lines. After more questions, we found that company’s ticket office was a couple of lines over from the one Chris had been standing in — and there was no line. Again, why? And the tickets for this train were much cheaper than the other line. Non capisco!
As we talked to the agent, I realized that I had bought tickets for the wrong day (duh!), and she made that change for me. So, we finally had our tickets together on the same train on the same day. Whew!
And then the next morning, after a quick trip to the incredible Duomo and another yummy coffee and croissant, we were flying through the beautiful Italian countryside to Rome. Green fields. Red poppies. Tall, elegant poplars. All good.
The train station in Rome was, again, huge, but we found our way to the cab stand and got in line. Soon we were off to our hotel, weaving through major avenues and tiny warrens of streets. Everything seemed much more worn and dirty than in Florence, and there was a lot of graffiti, but that, too, was expected.
Our hotel, the Hotel Rafaello, on a street called Via Urbana, also looked a little worn and the elevator didn’t work, which meant up and down three flights of stairs for next three days. We later learned that the hotel was slated for a major renovation. We soon found that the hotel staff would not be as helpful as they had been in Florence. In fact, it seemed as if whenever we came near the desk, at least one attendant would pretend he was taking a phone call. (ha!) To their credit, we received the free breakfast buffet every morning because of the downed elevator, which was huge and delicious.
That afternoon, we walked around, found a cute little bistro for a quick bite and soon came upon the Coliseum less than a half mile away. We walked there a bit until the sky opened, and we ran for shelter along with the rest of the crowd. We had fun chatting with other tourists until the rain let up and we headed back to our hotel.
That night we ate at the one “so-so” restaurant on our whole trip. Again, it was suggested by our hotel concierge. And it was the only suggestion they had — for lunch and dinner. Had to wonder if someone was related to someone. Anyway, we stopped asking for suggestions and found our own.
The next day we were up early and taking a cab ride to the Vatican. Once we got there, I wondered how we would ever find our tour company. Lines were wrapped around every corner, even that early, as people waited for their timed ticket entry.
We were lucky enough to have tickets for a small tour of the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica, which allowed us to skip the line and go in early. Thank the Lord (so appropriate)! Anyway, tour guides all know each other, so all we had to do was show our letter to any tour guide and they directed us to the right spot.
While we waited, we grabbed another great coffee and the most delicious strawberry croissant I had ever had. Actually, we waited quite a while for the croissant, and when we got it, I realized why. It had just been delivered by the bakery and the strawberries were freshly sliced. Yes, a taste of heaven in a little back-street coffee shop across from the high walls of the Vatican.
Our tour guide was an amazing young woman, whose name was Ilaria (Hilary in English), with a deep knowledge of art and an understanding of the inner workings of the Vatican. She kept us moving and shared so many stories as we walked through the long galleries and then to St. Peter’s Basilica. We even saw a wedding taking place in the one of the basilica’s side chapels. She told us that when she was engaged, she had planned to get married there, too. But the waitlist for weddings was three years long, and the engagement ended before the call came.
Anyone who has visited the Vatican knows of its immensity, its history, and its shocking cache of art, sculptures and riches. It’s hard not to wonder what my weekly offering of pennies went toward as a kid! And to picture Michelangelo as he lay on the rigging to paint the various scenes on the Sistine Chapel is to imagine a life so wholly different from that of any artist today. In the attempted reverential sort-of quiet of the chapel, the ceiling seems to be a riot of raw emotions. Of course, photos are not allowed here. They would not do this incredible work of art justice anyway.
Enough for now. I’ll come back for the Coliseum and more in the next chapter.
Veni, vidi, vici!